Balboa Park's California Tower: Bertram Goodhue’s 1915 Spanish Colonial Masterpiece and the Views Above San Diego
Bertram Goodhue’s masterpiece: The 200-foot California Tower and intricately carved Churrigueresque frontispiece of the California Building, the monumental western gateway to Balboa Park since 1915. When cities build world's fairs, they almost always look to ancient Rome or Greece for validation. In 1893, Chicago’s World's Columbian Exposition erected an imposing "White City" of plaster columns, pediments, and Beaux-Arts monuments that set the template for civic American ambition. But in 1911, when the modest border city of San Diego—then home to barely 40,000 residents—announced it would host an international exposition celebrating the opening of the Panama Canal, master architect Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue staged a quiet revolution against the Greco-Roman orthodoxy. Goodhue argued that plaster neoclassical temples made zero architectural sense on the dry, sun-drenched coastal mesas of Southern California. Instead, he looked south toward the exuberant, hyper...